Singapore - An island of entertainment
Singapore may have traded in its rough-and-ready opium dens and pearl luggers for towers of concrete and glass, and its steamy rickshaw image for hi-tech wizardry, but you can still recapture the colonial era with a gin sling under the languorous ceiling fans at Raffles Hotel. It is this carefully stage-managed combination of Western modernity and treasured Eastern and colonial past that makes Singapore such an accessible slice of Asia.
Lying almost on the equator, Singapore is a thriving city-state that has overcome its dearth of natural resources to become one of the juggernaut economies of Asia. In the crowded streets of Chinatown, fortune tellers, calligraphers and temple worshippers are still a part of everyday life. In Little India, you can buy the best sari material, freshly ground spices or a picture of your favourite Hindu god. In the small shops of Arab St, the cry of the imam can be heard from the nearby Sultan Mosque.
Facts- Full country name: Republic of Singapore
- Area: 683 sq km (266 sq mi)
- Population: 4.1 million (growth rate 1.15%)
- People: 77% Chinese, 14% Malay, 8% Indian
- Language: English, Malay, Mandarin and Tamil
- Religion: 42% Buddhist, 15% Muslim, 14% Christian, 9% Taoist, 4% Hindu
- Government: Parliamentary democracy
- President: SR Nathan
- Prime Minister: Mr Lee Hsien Loong
- GDP: US$85 billion
- GDP per head: US$20,700
- Annual growth: 4%
- Inflation: 1%
- Major industries: Manufacturing, electronics, chemicals, trade, business and financial services, shipping, tourism, construction
- Major trading partners: US, Malaysia, Hong Kong, Japan, South Korea
The mark of Sir Stamford Raffles is indelibly stamped on central Singapore. By moving the business district south of the river and making the northern area the administrative centre, Raffles created the framework that remained the blueprint for central Singapore through generations of colonial rule and the republican years of independence. Places of interest include: Empress Place Building, an imposing Victorian structure, built in 1865, that houses a museum, art and antique galleries and a chic restaurant; the incongruous Padang, where flannelled cricketers once caught, bowled and batted in the searing heat; Raffles Hotel, a Singaporean institution which has become a byword for oriental luxury; and any number of imposing churches, such as St Andrew's Cathedral and the Cathedral of the Good Shepherd.
ChinatownChinatown is Singapore's cultural heart and still provides glimpses of the old ways with its numerous temples, decorated terraces and its frantic conglomeration of merchants, shops and activity. Unfortunately much of Chinatown has been torn down and redeveloped over the past 30 years. Faithful restoration by the Urban Redevelopment Authority has saved some parts but it has also posed a new threat, since the restored buildings are now desirable properties commanding high rents, and traditional businesses - such as shops selling incense to temple worshippers, letter writers and chop (stamp) makers - are moving out and a new gentrified Chinatown of fashionable restaurants and expensive shops is taking its place. It's still a fascinating place to explore though, especially in the early-morning hours when activity is more pronounced. The Thian Hock Keng Temple in Chinatown is arguably the most interesting in Singapore.
Arab StThe Muslim centre of Singapore is a traditional textile district, full of batiks from Indonesia, silks, sarongs and shirts. Add to this mix rosaries, flower essences, hajj caps, songkok hats, basketware and rattan goods, and you have a fair idea of the products haggled over in this part of the city. The grand Sultan Mosque is the biggest and liveliest mosque in Singapore, but the tiny Malabar Muslim Jama-ath Mosque is the most beautiful. There's fine Indian Muslim food along nearby North Bridge Rd and the foodstalls on Bussorah St are especially atmospheric at dusk during Ramadan.
Little India
This modest but colourful area of wall-to-wall shops, pungent aromas and Hindi film music is a relief from the prim modernity of many parts of the city. Centred around the southern end of Serangoon Rd, this is the place to come to pick up that framed print of a Hindu god you've always wanted, eat great vegetarian food and watch streetside cooks fry chapatis. The Zhujiao Centre (also called the Tekka Centre) is the main market, but there are also interesting spice shops nearby. The best temples are Veeramakaliammam, Sri Srinivasa Perumal and the glitzy Temple of 1000 Lights.
Orchard RdThis is the area where the high-class hotels predominate. It is also the domain of Singapore's elite, who are lured by the shopping centres, nightspots, restaurants, bars and lounges. A showcase for the material delights of capitalism, Orchard Rd also possesses some sights of cultural interest where a credit card is not required.
Jurong
Jurong Town, west of the city centre, is a huge industrial and housing area that is the powerhouse of Singapore's economy. This might seem an unlikely spot for a number of Singapore's tourist attractions but it is home to the Haw Par Villa (an incredibly tacky Chinese mythological theme park), the beautifully landscaped Jurong Bird Park, Chinese Garden and the hands-on Singapore Discovery Centre.
Sentosa IslandConsidered the granddaddy of Singapore's parks, Sentosa Island is the city-state's most visited attraction, especially on weekends. It has museums, aquariums, beaches (with imported sand), sporting facilities, walks, rides and food centres. And if a day isn't enough to take in all the sites and activities, the island has a camping ground, hostel and luxury hotels.
Changi VillageThere aren't too many places in Singapore that could be considered virgin wilderness but there are some that offer an escape from the hubbub of the central district. Changi Village, on the east coast, no longer has traditional kampong houses but it does have a village atmosphere. And, if the beach is not exactly a tropical paradise it does have the advantage of being almost deserted during the weekdays.
Pulau UbinChangi Village is a convenient jump-off point for the northern island of Pulau Ubin. As soon as there is a quota of 12 passengers, a bumboat takes you across to the island where you can find quiet beaches, a kampong atmosphere and popular seafood restaurants. The tranquil rural flavour of Pulau Ubin is as far removed from the cosmopolitan bustle of Singapore central as it is possible to get. The island is small enough to cycle around and this is still the best way to explore its fish farms, holy temples, coconut palms and deserted beaches.
Southern IslandsAlthough some of the southern islands are industrial bases, there are a few off-the-beaten-track islands where you can find a quiet beach. Sisters' Islands are good for swimming and, with their nearby coral reefs, are a popular diving spot. Other islands worth checking out are Lazarus Island (Pulau Sakijang Pelepah), Pulau Buran Darat, Terumba Retan Laut and Pulau Renggit.
Bukit Timah Nature ReserveAlthough little is left of Singapore's wilderness Bukit Timah Nature Reserve, lying to the north of the CBD, is the largest area of remaining primary rainforest. The park is filled with over 800 species of native plants including giant trees, ferns and native wild flowers. This is also where you'll see long-tailed macaques, lemurs, reticulated pythons, the intriguingly named greater racquet-tailed drongo and the white-bellied sea eagle.
Travel Tips Visa to SingaporeMost Western nationals either do not require a visa at all or do not require a visa for a social stay of up to 90 days. A 30-day permit is issued on arrival, and extensions are difficult to obtain.
Health risks: Hepatitis A
Time: GMT/UTC+8
Electricity: 220-240V, 50 Hz
Weights & measures: Metric with local variations
When to go to SingaporeGo anytime. Climate is not a major consideration, as Singapore gets fairly steady annual rainfall. You may like to co-ordinate your visit with various festivals and events: Thaipusam is one of the most spectacular festivals, occurring around February. If shopping and eating are your major concerns, July is a good month as the Singapore Food Festival and Great Singapore Sale are held then.
Events in SingaporeSingapore's polyglot population celebrates a number of festivals and events. Chinese, Hindu and Muslim celebrations follow a lunar calendar so dates of festivities vary from year to year. Chinese New Year, in January or February, is welcomed in with dragon dances, parades and much good cheer. Chinatown is lit up and there are fireworks and night markets. During Ramadan, food stalls are set up in the evening in the Arab St district, near the Sultan Mosque. Hari Raya Puasa, the end of Ramadan in January or February, is marked by three days of joyful celebrations. Vesak Day in April or May celebrates Buddha's birth, enlightenment and death. It is marked by various events, including the release of caged birds to symbolise the setting free of captive souls. The Dragon Boat Festival, held in May or June, commemorates the death of a Chinese patriot who drowned himself as a protest against government corruption. It is celebrated with boat races across Marina Bay, accompanied by much eating of rice dumplings.
The Festival of the Hungry Ghosts is usually celebrated in September. This is when the souls of the dead are released for feasting and entertainment on earth. Chinese operas are performed for them and food is offered; the ghosts eat the spirit of the food but thoughtfully leave the substance for the mortal celebrants. The festival of Thaipusam is one of the most dramatic Hindu festivals and is now banned in India. Devotees honour Lord Subramaniam with acts of amazing body-piercing masochism - definitely not for the squeamish. In Singapore, devotees march in procession from the Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple on Serangoon Rd to the Chettiar Hindu Temple on Tank Rd. Dates for the festival are based on the lunar calendar.
A swag of airlines fly into Singapore's ultramodern Changi international airport - often voted one of the best airports in the world.
Lots of visitors to Singapore combine their stay with a visit to Malaysia, which is just a kilometre away across the causeway over the Straits of Johor. You can travel between Malaysia and Singapore very easily by bus or taxi. A second causeway has opened to ease congestion - it links Tuas in Singapore with Geylang Patah - and is known pragmatically enough as the Second Link. It can only be used if you have your own transport.
A passenger ferry operates between north Changi and Tanjung Belungkor, east of Johor Bahru, and a daily high-speed catamaran links Singapore with Malaysia's Tioman Island. Immaculate air-conditioned buses link Singapore to almost all large Malaysian cities; fares are generally inexpensive. Singapore is the southern terminus of Malaysia's rail system and there are three trains a day to Kuala Lumpur (four on weekends).
There are no direct passenger ferries between Singapore and the main ports of Indonesia, but it is possible to travel between the two countries via the Indonesian islands of the Riau Archipelago, immediately south of Singapore. Modern ferries link Singapore with the islands of Batam and Bintan in the archipelago. Speedboats link Batam with Pekanbaru in Sumatra, and several ships a week link Bintan with Jakarta.
Getting Around SingaporeSingapore has a comprehensive bus network with frequent services and a convenient Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) subway system. Both are cheap and simple to use. There is also a good supply of taxis and all are metered. There are branches of all major rent-a-car companies here and you can charter bumboats (motorised sampans) to take various tours on the Singapore River. Regular ferry services operate from the World Trade Centre to Sentosa and other islands, while luxurious junk tours can be taken around the harbour. Rickshaws have disappeared from Singapore's main streets, but can still be found operating in Chinatown and back streets; agree on a fare beforehand.
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